From DVD to MP4 - Best picture quality?

[iStian]

I assume this question has been asked several times, but I cannot find a thread that gives me an answer.

I am new to Handbrake and would really like to get some pointers to achieve the following:

I would like to convert all my DVD's to MP4 format, but at the same time try to keep as much of the original DVD quality as possible. After reading some of the threads I have picked up that getting the same quality as you would if the movie was playing from the DVD is nearly impossible.

What settings do I use to get as close to this as possible? The file size is not relevant, neihter is the time it takes to convert/rip the DVD.
I have read threads where framerates, pf or whatever has been discussed, but my problem is that I don't know what the H... that is. Simply, tell me what the best settings are I don't need to understand it, I think....

I will be using iTunes on a Mac Mini as my movie player, which is connected to my 46" screen.

If someone can give me som pointers on what settings to use or give me a link to a thread that answers this I would appreciate it

[Deleted User 11865]

1) Pick a preset that's compatible with your playback device(s)

2) Use an RF of 19-19.25 for Constant Quality

[iStian]

1) Pick a preset that's compatible with your playback device(s)

2) Use an RF of 19-19.25 for Constant Quality

Thanks for the reply, you say I should pick my device, but my device is a Mac Mini connected to my Panasonic 46" tv with a DVI - HDMI adapter and the in the presets there is no such option. I use my Mac Mini as a multimedia center instead of an Apple TV. Should I pick the Apple - Apple TV preset and only do the change in RF from 20 to 19? No messing around with FPS or any of the other settings under the advanced tab?

I've read many threads where they talk about changing many different settings and so on (without understanding half of what they are talking about ), but this is basically what needs to be done to get as close to DVD quality as possible?

[dynaflash]

*if* it were me here is what I would do: http://dynaflashtech.net/2009/11/06/han ... e-setting/

However its not me. There is no right answer. There is what works for you. Those settings work for me a mbp and an appletv. There is no absolute answer to your question.

[mduell]

He doesn't have an Apple TV. There's no reason to use Apple TV.

Use the High Profile preset when your playback device is a computer.

[dynaflash]

I realize that. frankly however the settings I listed to him would be better quality for dvd (rf 19.25 vs. the high profile rf 20). I did not say he had to or should use what I posted. I said thats what I would do. As well in the eventuality the op ever does try to play the encodes on an apple device the atv based preset is more likely to be compatible ... of course depending on the device. Again as I said there is no right or wrong answer here. But what works best.

[phoenixdown]

dynaflash -- from a technical perspective, could you elaborate a little more on the differences between the appletv preset (with your suggested changes) and the high profile setting? I'm currently using the high profile setting but I'm trying to figure out if its worth the trade offs for apple compatability.

I seem to recall reading something about appletv not supporting b frames as well which helps keep the files sizes down?

edit: sorry if thats such a newb question ... been browsing around and reading up, trying to acclimated with the various factors that go into all this.

[iStian]

Thanks for the answers guys.
I have done one rip with the Apple TV preset and one with the High Profile preset. I noticed that the High Profile preset took almost twice as long to complete as the Apple TV preset. Is this cause the High Profile gives a better quality and therefore takes longer or is it some other reason for this. If the quality comes out the same I see no reason for using the High Profile preset due to the time it takes. I altered the RF to 19 for both presets, I am not sure if reducing the RF to 19 for both presets is the way to go, but I assume that since this needs to be done the Apple TV preset it is smart to do it for the High Profile as well…. Does my logic make sense?

Dynaflash, I have not tried doing a rip adding the text on your link under the advanced tab. Does this improve the quality, or does this only make it more compatible with an Apple TV device? I will most likely not buy an Apple TV device since I prefer using my Mac Mini as a multimedia center, however, if the picture quality comes out the same (High Profile vs Apple TV with modifications) it is better to be safe and just make them all compatible with the Apple TV device since no one can predict the future

For me the quality is the most important, time and file size is not important at all. I have paid for the quality on the DVD’s and I would like to keep it as well. You say it is no right answer to my original question, is that because it is a matter of taste or is it depending on what device used to play the movie? Because if it is device dependent I would assume it is possible to compare the quality from a DVD and a ripped move playing from iTunes on a Mac and then find the optimal settings? Or is it more to it?

Thanks for helping me out guys, this is a new field for me and I need all the help I can get!

[dynaflash]

dynaflash -- from a technical perspective, could you elaborate a little more on the differences between the appletv preset (with your suggested changes) and the high profile setting? I'm currently using the high profile setting but I'm trying to figure out if its worth the trade offs for apple compatability.

Well first off the appleTV does and always has supported bframes. Which is why the appletv preset uses bframes . What the AppleTV does not support that your computer will support is weightp, which is why I note "weightp=0" in that link. It is required for an appletv compatible encode. Period.

Now as to comparable quality ... In general the RF value on the constant quality slider will dictate same visual quality across other advanced settings ... Again * in general *. The idea is that given the same rf value two encodes visual quality will be the same, advanced settings will typically increase or decrease bitrate/file size needed to achieve that visual quality but sometimes at the expense of device compatibility. Now, having said that it can be a gross oversimplification. For instance increasing subq (also known as subme) from say 6 to 9 can increase the visual quality even at the same Rate Factor (RF) value on the slider. Note that this increase in this setting will increase your encoding times. How much it actually increases it is arguable and up to your own judgement. Not a simple explanation to be sure but I tried to be thorough and brief at the same time.

In general the higher profile the options the longer the encoding time.

[wysinawyg]

iStian,

Part of the problem is that when people say "Qualilty is all that matters" they don't mean it.

You can preserve 100% quality by moving the quality slider to 100%, but that will turn your 8GB DVD into a 40GB file that won't play on anything other than your computer (and maybe not even that)

Which means suddenly file size has become part of an issue, compatibility may well be part of an issue and even encoding time will have its limits if you go too far.

So suddenly its all a compromise and with everyone having different spec computers (slow encodes are much less of an issue if its slow for an i7 and hence 40 fps rather than slow for a C2D at 5-10 fps), different other devices they may want to run it on and varying ideas of what constitutes a reasonable size.

Personally I need AppleTV (actually iPhone 3GS) compatibility but a lack of desire to test, i7 iMac and time and storage space to spare means I run more aggressive advanced settings than dynaflash. That means bigger files, slower encodes and probably no difference in visual quality that I'll ever appreciate...

My advice is either:

1. read through the advanced AppleTV settings threads and spend a few hours (or more) properly understanding all the stuff so you can make a valid choice; or
2. just go with dynaflash's advanced settings and the AppleTV preset and bump the RF up to 18.5 or maybe even lower if you really don't mind the much larger files. Actually maybe best take a film with lots of action in it and do it at RF19 and RF18.5 and spend some time really seeing if you can tell any difference.

As someone who is using a Mac I don't personally see it as worthwhile to go for the High Profile preset and risk incompatibility with whatever future Apple device you may want to try when you can get fairly close results off the AppleTV preset with only really the expense of some extra disc space.

[dynaflash]

iStian,
You can preserve 100% quality by moving the quality slider to 100%, but that will turn your 8GB DVD into a 40GB file that won't play on anything other than your computer (and maybe not even that)

well, of course "sort of" ... http://trac.handbrake.fr/wiki/SupportFA ... melosesome

2. just go with dynaflash's advanced settings and the AppleTV preset and bump the RF up to 18.5 or maybe even lower if you really don't mind the much larger files. Actually maybe best take a film with lots of action in it and do it at RF19 and RF18.5 and spend some time really seeing if you can tell any difference.

Given enough encoding horsepower and/or not caring how long it takes, the first thing I would bump from my settings is subq to like 8 or 9. I use a mbp c2d which is much slower than an i7 so for me the encoding time to quality tradeoff is much greater than someone using an i7.

Also as you decrease RF (increase quality) realize that its a logarithmic scale, meaning that for instance if using dvd sources, beyond rf 19 (which will be actually like 18, etc) you will start to see much larger file sizes and bitrates for any possible incremental visual quality you *might* see. Just a word of advice from one who has tested it ad nauseum.

[phoenixdown]

Thank you again for taking the time to explain all of this. I'm now going with the settings you recommended

[iStian]

dynaflash,
I have just started to convert the majority of my DVD collection to .m4v files. I am wondering how long it should take to convert 1 DVD?
I am converting a DVD that lasts for 2 h 24 min, and I am using the settings you recommended in your link, however I have turned the RF to 18,5. With these settings it is taking me about 2 h and 30 min to convert the DVD. Is this right?? I have read other places it usually takes about 45 min pluss minus...

I am doing this on a MBP 2,53 ghz, dual core, 4 gig ram (MBP from september last year 2009)...

I am running the latest version of HB and I have downloaded the VLC 64bit, so I think, not sure, that I am running it on 64 bit... Is there a way for me to check this?

Could someone please tell me if the time it takes is normal?

[mduell]

That's within the bounds of normal. You can probably make it faster at the expense of compression efficiency. Post your encoding log so we can see what you're doing.

[iStian]

Thanks for all your help guys
So far I have been using the following:
ref=3:mixed-refs=1:bframes=3:me=hex:subq=9:b-adapt=2:8x8dct=1:weightb=0:trellis=0:weightp=0
as well as RF to 18,5

Those are the settings I have used for regular DVD's, however if I am to convert animations am I better of increasing B-frames from 3 to higher? If so, how much higher? What does B frames do?

[iStian]

Also, can anyone tell me what "picture settings" are "best"?
I am currently running with cropping = Automatic
Width = 720
Keep aspect ratio unchecked
Anamorphic = Loose

Filters are all turned off

Thanks for all help I can get

[mduell]

Also, can anyone tell me what "picture settings" are "best"?
I am currently running with cropping = Automatic
Width = 720
Keep aspect ratio unchecked
Anamorphic = Loose

Filters are all turned off

Keep aspect ratio on, anamorphic strict, filters (decomb/detelecine) as appropriate.

[canyonblue737]

When are the default filters under the High Profile setting appropriate for SD DVD content? Thanks....

[mduell]

When your source is interlaced and/or telecined.

[dynaflash]

When are the default filters under the High Profile setting appropriate for SD DVD content? Thanks....

Personally I use decomb and detelecine on everything. But thats just me.

[iStian]

Thanks for all your help guys
So far I have been using the following:
ref=3:mixed-refs=1:bframes=3:me=hex:subq=9:b-adapt=2:8x8dct=1:weightb=0:trellis=0:weightp=0
as well as RF to 18,5

Those are the settings I have used for regular DVD's, however if I am to convert animations am I better of increasing B-frames from 3 to higher? If so, how much higher? What does B frames do?

Nobody knows?

[iStian]

When are the default filters under the High Profile setting appropriate for SD DVD content? Thanks....

Personally I use decomb and detelecine on everything. But thats just me.

Do you use strict for anamorphic and automatic for cropping as well?
When you say you use decomb and detelecine on everything does that mean default instead of custom and off?
What about the denoise and deblock? Mine are both "off"
What about the slider for decomb-deinterlace? Where should this be positioned?

Thanks for all your answers so far dynaflash!! You have been very helpfull

ref=3:mixed-refs=1:bframes=3:me=hex:subq=9:b-adapt=2:8x8dct=1:weightb=0:trellis=0:weightp=0
as well as RF to 18,5
In relation to these settings, how important are the picture settings? Do they make a big difference? Cause I have all ready started to ripp a large part of my DVD collection without touching the picture settings, it has been done with the following:
cropping = Automatic
Width = 720
Keep aspect ratio unchecked
Anamorphic = Loose
Decombe-Deinterlace slider all the way to the left
Filters are all turned off

If these settings are making my dvd´s "crap" i guess i just have to start all over

Sorry for all the "stupid" questions but I just want to make sure I get the most and best out of my DVD collection

[iStian]

Anyone?

[nightstrm]

Anyone?

For the few remaining DVDs I have to convert, I typically use the high profile preset with strict anamorphic and an RF of either 20 or 19.5 (depending on content). I gave up on trying to find the "perfect" Handbrake settings long ago as I've found myself re-encoding significant portions of my collection anyways as newer features have been added over the years (ex. I think I've encoded the entire X-Files and Futurama series' at least three times each).

[chouetteman]

Dynaflash, new to handbrake, have liked your posts and patient, detailed responses. I am just now joining the world of digitizing dvds with intent for use on various things - ipad, in home media server, etc. I using the free version of DVD Fab to convert the DVD to a (I believe the term is - TS File) and then I convert it again to MP4 using Handbrake. Don't laugh if it absurd / redundant, it was a free solution offered by a friend to my required end - convert the dvds cheaply to MP4.

I am saving both files (TS and MP4) because:
A. Due to my ignorance, I am not sure if the TS file is of "equal quality" to the DVD.
B. I want to save time (future time).

While right now particular platforms are good mp4, etc., I am not Apple loyal or other brand loyal. I want to digitize the DVD, but save it in the most compatible version - across the board. While I agree my primary goal is to have the best quailty for watching it on my TV, and MP4 is permitting me quality images on both the TV and IPAD at the moment and honestly I can not really tell a quality difference. However, if a newer 'better' file format comes out in a few years, I dont want to have to re-rip all of the dvds into yet a new format like NIGHTSTRM has done with Xfiles, etc.). However, saving two file formats is killing me memory wize as MP4 is SOOO much smaller. I am already looking into 3 Terabite storage knowing I have many more dvds to go and will continue to include my video collection despite the source (dvd, internet download, etc.)

So, the questions:
Is the TS file format the better - more versitile/universal format to keep should I wish to convert the DVD file to yet a different file type in the future? Or is it irrelevant and I am wasting valuable memory and time duplicating my efforts?

In advance, thanks for your reply and you are also welcome for the chuckle and eye rolling you got from reading this post! Your recommedations - well explained will go a long way to helping me.